Climbing shoes are necessary to any person who chooses to go climbing. legs work – one of the most important aspects of climbing equipment. Without climbing shoes climbing training becomes ineffective, even at the primary level.
Climbing shoes – very individual thing and find a suitable model is not so simple. First we need to decide you need them for any type of climbing, and where you will use them, for example, bouldering, mountaineering or long runs.
Experienced climbers pretty good idea of what they want on Skalník. Beginners are often mistaken with the choice, as the model and size climbing shoes, which leads to the need to purchase new ones.
If you have never in my life did not wear climbing shoes – to climb a bit in rolling before their purchase. So you will make an impression on the specifics of the legs when climbing. Although the box office are the most common budget and strongly worn-sneakers.
Climbing shoes usually worn on bare feet. They are not designed for comfortable walking, and often for a long stay in them. After prolazili route climbing shoes removed and do not go into them in the hall. Accordingly, the choice of climbing shoes you should not rely on the usual sense, developed in the course of normal wear shoes.
On the market a wide range of climbing shoes to any “”taste and color.”” Some of the information in their description of fundamental importance.
First and foremost when choosing climbing shoes should pay attention to the following points:
- material and size;
- method of fixing on the leg.
The material and size of climbing shoes
Climbing shoes may be made of natural leather / suede leather or synthetic materials.
Climbing shoes made of genuine leather
Climbing shoes made of leather, as a rule, well-stretched in the first weeks of operation, although there are exceptions, such as climbing shoes of the company climbing shoes La Sportiva. This provides a more precise landing on the leg, but difficult choice of size and makes pass through raznashivaniya procedure.
In general, the denser the climbing shoes wrap around the legs, the greater the support is provided. However, too small climbing shoes wear out much faster, almost anything without adding legs statement, except discomfort.
Stretching several sizes, leather climbing shoes as much as possible to adapt to whatever the owner of the foot, and the choice is too large can quickly turn into a trampled “”galoshes””. These climbing shoes – the lot of experienced climbers, is well aware of the specifics of their choice.
It seems surprising, but soft Gym shoes really stretch to 6 sizes, in different directions – and leather, and rubber. They have no hard inserts, so there is a movable block. For example, climbing shoes La Sportiva quite break in, size 2-3 – the norm even for relatively hard shoes.
For example, models such as the Cobra climbing shoes or Python originally designed for raznashivanie leg. Author climbed in Cobra-x 36/37-th at the city 42.5.
Note that excessively deformed block, which negates the many technological advantages in raznashivanii too little rock shoes high and medium hardness. So, if you regularly and painfully break in climbing shoes, and even then can hardly hold them for 5-10 minutes, you may go too far.
The size of rock shoes. A story about everyday concerns.
When you select any model of rock shoes made of natural materials should look for an opportunity to measure already worn-climbing shoes.
In any case, unambiguous guidelines on choosing the size can be given, as much depends on the flexibility of the toes, you carry the squeezing feet and other individual characteristics.
Climbing shoes made of synthetic materials
Climbing shoes of synthetic material usually stretched within one size. This simplifies the selection, reduces the chances to make a mistake with the size and eliminates the raznashivaniya procedure.
Size should take maximum small, provided that standing on his toes, you do not feel pain. Simply put, your feet should be close, but not hurt. It is better if the fingers are bent, although I have seen rock climbers who toes do not bend in the middle phalanx, respectively, such a recommendation is not for everyone.
If you decide to buy climbing shoes made of synthetic materials, pay attention to the range of Five Ten.
Shoes climbing shoes
Block climbing shoes is curved in the horizontal and vertical planes.
Horizontal bend (asymmetry) climbing shoes
Horizontal bend (asymmetry) shows the shape of the foot, which are designed climbing shoes.
If you have a long narrow foot low arch, you will approach a straight climbing shoes. For example, La Sportiva Katana or Miura.
If the foot is greatly expanded from the heel to the toes and has a high arch, you should look for a more asymmetrical model of rock shoes. For example, Scarpa Stix or La Sportiva Testarossa.
Climbing shoes having an average degree of asymmetry climbers can be used with any shape of the foot. Example – La Sportiva Solution.
The degree of asymmetry climbing shoes
The degree of asymmetry
Vertical deflection (aggressiveness) climbing shoes
Vertical deflection (aggressiveness) reflects the nature of the routes on which the calculated pre-emptive climbing climbing shoes.
Sport shoe involves setting accented legs characteristic overhanging routes and hall-climbing.
More direct model is best suited for routes with a positive bias, especially if you often put your feet on the friction.
Vertical deflection of climbing shoes
For beginners optimal climbing shoes with a minimum of asymmetry and aggression – the feet are comfortable in them. This is true, especially with regard to aggressiveness – the exact formulation of the legs and accentuated requires experience. With regard to the asymmetry of this recommendation is not always true. It may be that people with strongly divergent feet, even at the primary level will be more comfortable in climbing shoes with a high degree of asymmetry. Try different models and choose the most convenient.
Direct climbing shoes better tolerated repair and plywood rubber. Find Wizard is able to bring an aggressive beak Skalnik in Russia is not so simple (although they are). In Europe, the repair process is much better placed, so that, going to visit Barcelona or Rodellar, grab your mashed aggressive shoes, you will make of them new.
Planting climbing shoes heel
For advanced climbers is very important landing heel climbing shoes. It is important that even when equipped new climbing shoes, voids in the heel does not arise.
This point is very different, and often have to try a bunch of models before there will more or less right. At the initial level, you should not get too hung up on the heel, focusing mainly on the “”total comfort””.
The width of the shoe climbing shoes
The width of the pads
Rigidity climbing shoes pads
In addition to bending, shoes are very different in terms of stiffness of pads.
Features a hard climbing shoes:
- provide better support on crimps, but lose much softer in terms of sensitivity.
- the foundation of a thick rubber, which increases the service life of rock shoes.
- usually much less break in.
- Models such as Scarpa Instinct little adapted to the foot holder.
Accordingly, when selecting the hard shoe should be based on the conditions of the maximum matching your leg pads.
If you are going to climb long routes mnogoverovochnye or not too overhanging trails with lots of small hooks, and besides, you are 2 meters tall and weigh 90 kg, you should think hard about the shoes.
If you are going to master the stunning footwork on heavily overhanging routes, soft shoes will suit you much better.
If you’re a novice climber, avoid extremes, take the shoes of medium hardness, as a rule, they are versatile enough.
And do not think that all Gym shoes with soft pad and easy to break in. Among this type of climbing shoes are representatives with a very rigid and unyielding block.
Another factor influencing the choice of models climbing shoes – foot shape, or rather the toes. climbing shoes toe can also be configured in different ways – rounded, pointed. So much for the Roman foot pads are suitable for almost all – is a middle option. But for the Egyptian and Greek foot choices will be more limited.
The shape of the foot / toes
Lace-up or Velcro in climbing shoes?
Climbing shoes can be divided into three large groups:
- climbing shoes with laces;
- climbing shoes with Velcro;
- Gym shoes (they are sleepers).
Climbing shoes with Velcro, laces and Gym shoes
The choice of attachment – a matter of taste. Boulderers tend to prefer climbing shoes with Velcro or Gym shoes, as you have them all the time on and off. Laces enables more precise fit. Compliance with foot pads, a much more important point than the mount.
Climbing shoes and mountaineering for multipitch
If you are going to climb routes that need to undergo many hours, then the following approaches to the choice of shoes:
Route relatively simple and does not require any frills in terms punctuated footwork and involves a lot of climbing on the “”friction””. Here you fit straight comfortable shoes comfortable size. This may be, for example, legendary La Sportiva Mythos Terra.
The route involves climbing the cracks and often setting feet on small hooks, or standing in the stirrups. Your choice – hard shoes covering the ankle knuckles, for example, La Sportiva TC Pro.
If your shoes do not cover the ankle, it is worth thinking about the protection of the patch, otherwise the legs jammed in the gaps quickly formed bleeding and very painful sores.
When using a large shoe size, rigidity becomes an important factor for the small hooks hard climbing shoes with thick rubber and various additional inserts have significantly more support, in addition to these shoes feet less was transferred by stirrups.
The route involves the passage of difficult areas. You have to use shoes small size close to what you use on sport routes. Using a large climbing shoes climbing greatly complicates and increases the load on your toes at the end, they get tired faster than in tight shoes. So prepare for the fact that your feet will hurt.
A few tips:
Use a thin nylon socks – it reduces the friction between the climbing shoes and skin, without affecting the quality of foot. It will be much easier to endure a long stay in the climbing shoes.
Fit shoes to erasers, from the girths around the foot. You can remove and put on shoes at the end of sections, without the risk of losing them and not spending too much time on pristogivanie / otstogivanie shoes;
Try not to get in the sun. A long climb to the sun in tight climbing shoes – hell. After prolazili need to clean up the climbing shoes in the shade.
With the passage of the next section immediately remove climbing shoes as soon stand on the self-insurance, all other movements do not have shoes. Do this with the first portion, even if it is initially comfortable.
Care climbing shoes
If you want to keep your shoes clean, do not walk barefoot on the mats and the ground during periods of rest between climbing approaches.
Be sure to reach for your shoes after a workout and give them to dry, but it is not necessary to dry them in the sun or the battery – it does not go to them for future use.
Occasionally washable climbing shoes, do it better by hand, using a brush and ordinary soap. Wash climbing shoes more often than once every 2-3 months is not necessary if the need arises – perhaps you are doing something wrong.
Before climbing it is useful to clean the socks rock shoes from dust and rub the palm within 30-40 seconds, clean and slightly heated by the rubber has significantly better grip.
How to choose a climbing shoes – conclusions:
If you are new – your choice of synthetic climbing shoes of medium hardness with a minimally invasive, if you strongly expanding foot, try to try on different models with asymmetry, if narrow – boldly take straight.
If you do decide to take the climbing shoes made of natural materials, look for an opportunity to try on worn-otherwise likely to be mistaken with the size is very high.
If you are an experienced climber – it seems, and so know very well what kind of shoes you need.